Hawaiian Walkways in

EnCompass Magazine March/April 2008

Excerpt from "Wild Hawaii"

by Eric Lindberg 

This east coast road winds through a landscape that is worlds apart from the arid leeward side of the island.  Tangled jungle fills deep ravines with a dozen shades of green.  Brief cloudbursts blow through, slowing traffic and drenching the land.  Around the next bend, the sun returns. 

According to Hugh Montgomery, owner of Hawaiian Walkways and longtime resident, there's a logical explanation to for these climatic extremes.  

"When trade winds hit the windward side, Mauna Kea blocks them from going further, and this side of the island gets dumped on."  

How Much?

"Around 120 inches a year," says Hugh.  "The leeward Kona side lies in the rain shadow of the volcanoes. It only gets around 10 inches a year."  Less rain means less runoff into the ocean, resulting in clearer water, more sandy beaches and more coral reefs.

Hugh is leading our group around Volcanoes National Park, 30 miles southwest of Hilo.  We begin in the wooded upper reaches where fern forests fill moist gullies.  Apapane and Amakihi birds flit and feed on the nectar of the `ohi`a lehua tree blossoms.

Passing the stinking steam vents at Sulfur Bank, the road drops into Kilauea Caldera under a baking midday sun.  Parking at the bottom, we hike to Halema`uma`u Crater, said to e the home of volcano goddess Pele.  Columns of sulfurous vpors rise from fissures in the hardened lava.  A few scraggly bushes and tufts of grass bend in the hot wind.  

Yet there is beauty.  The hardened [lava] beneath our feet swirls like a frozen river.  A solitary flowering bush rises from the undulating rock.  Overhead, white-tailed tropic birds dip and swerve, unwilling to alight in this desolate expanse.

To view Eric Lindberg's article, check online at www.encompassmag.com .  EnCompass magazine is a AAA travel publication that serves the Colorado area.